2022: A Retrospective

This website focuses on subjects which I’m interested and passionate about concerning places I’ve gone through, mainly questioning power discrepancies and socio-ecological issues. I’m going to make a slight exception in this post and talkt (rant) about the experiences, books, and music that I loved this year. Mostly because I’m a bit bored (I’m waiting in Accra for my bike to get fixed and figuring out the Nigerian visa...), but also because I get really invested in the music and books that I consume, and feel like reminiscing on some of the best and worst experiences of the trip so far.

The Best Days on the Bike

For me a great day on the bike means beautiful roads, an interesting cultural discovery, or just a heart-warming human moment. This means that most days were great, but there were a few in particular which really stand out.

Spain has been the toughest country I’ve crossed so far. The difficult tracks I took combined with awful weather and the inability to access supermarkets from 12 to 5 meant that Spain was the most physically challenging part of the trip by far. However, usually the blood, sweat, and tears were rewarded with fantastic views. My day which started by waking up from my wild-camp with an incredible view of the Embalse de la Bolera in the Sierra de Cazorla was near-perfect. After exiting the mountainous national park, I made it to Pozo Alcon where I had Churros while watching the Semana Santa processions. Watching groups of people carrying these massive Christian depictions of Mary or Jesus, having to stop every 20 seconds to rest their arms was something that I had never heard of or seen before. After that I made it to Fontanar and to the Mirador del Lirio, where, despite a hugely annoying Yorkshire terrier (truly the devil’s spawn) I had a stunning view of the landscape which combines snowy mountains and desert. The day was still not over, as I made my way to the Gorafe desert, a totally different landscape from the morning. I ended the day with a great wild-camp near the town of Gor, getting closer to the high Sierra Nevada. With views, culture, and adventure packed into a rare sunny day in Spain meant this was easily a high-point of the trip.

All my days in the Anti-Atlas in Morocco were highlights of my trip, but the ride from Tazenakht to Adghers N’Warfaln was the best. This was a physically draining day, but possibly the most adventurous of the entire trip. Beginning with a tarmac section, I quickly made it to Zaouiat, where I wanted to find the village store, and was assisted by a group of really kind women. I then made my way to the village of Toudma on gravel roads, greeting and being greeted by motorcyclists. Climbing to the pass above Toudma, I had a fantastic view of the plateau, before beginning one of the most remote sections of tracks that I have been on. I didn’t see a single person the whole afternoon, and needed to push my bike 15kms down a track much too rocky to cycle on, stopping every few steps to take another photograph. The views made me forget how exhausted I was. Upon reaching the bottom, I was able to cycle, but it was a jarring ride, the only signs of life being the many cairns left by nomads. After going through the entirety of my 8L of water, I finally made it to Adghers, where the first elderly lady that I met was more than happy to fill my water bottles. Up until this day, my interactions with women in Morocco were very limited. The change in mentality in this region was very welcome. I then made my way to the nearby oasis to find a stop to pitch my tent, and had one of the greatest wild-camp sites every, surrounded by date palms and an incredible view of the stars. I was even surprised when one of the people I had spoken to in the village had been looking for me in the oasis, to see if I would prefer to sleep at his house in the village for the night. Even though I insisted that I was very happy to stay where I was, I was touched that he took the time to check on me and make me feel comfortable. This day really made me reevaluate Morocco and the impact of tourism. This was easily the most remote and least touristic part of the country I had been to, and the welcome and friendliness of people reflected that.

Guinea had many fantastic days of riding, but my favorite was perhaps the section from a hill between Termesse and Touba. I had spent the previous evening with the very welcoming people from the village, and was allowed to sleep in front of the bakery, with the option to sleep inside if ever it started to rain (which fortunately it didn’t). The next morning the views were wonderful leading down to Touba, where I was held up by pounding rain. I had a sardine sandwich and chatted with everyone before moving again once the raid was only a drizzle. I had to carry my bike across many streams, push it up steep hills (reminding me of basically every day in Spain), and navigate a muddy and broken track. Even though on paper this sounds terrible, it was actually a lot of fun. The few people I met on the way were wonderful, happy to have a quick chat or to teach me a bit of Fulani/Pulaar. The scenery was wonderful, and even though this was a long day, I only managed 50 kms due to the difficult terrain. I decided to try to find a place to sleep in the village of Pelisaaré when I realised that I would not be able to make it to the larger town of Madina Wora in an hour and a half, although it was barely 8kms away. I met Mamadou and Boubakar who made my evening very memorable. Mamadou was slightly crazy, and I felt rather bad for him, as he obviously was suffering from mental issues, but was still unbelievably friendly. Boubakar on the other had was a bright youth who just wanted to ask me a million questions, and it was really easy for me to speak to him. He was preparing to leave for university in Kindia, and we’ve been in contact ever since. During the night the village cows found my tent too interesting and would constantly come closer, meaning that it was not my best night of sleep as I had to chase them off. The worst was when a cow decided that my rain-pants, laid out on my bike, were probably delicious and made off with them. That meant that at 1a.m. I was chasing a cow through the village in nothing by my underpants to get my rain-pants back. When I did, they were covered in cow drool and not as impermeable as before… Even though all of this doesn’t sound super enjoyable, the whole experience was way too memorable. The people and the views, alongside one of the most adventurous parts of the trip, made this section one of my favorites.

Boubakar & Mamadou

The Best Moments off the Bike

On trips like this, the connections you make with people are just as important as enjoying the bike riding. Its also essential to stop from time to time to rest and take in the place you’re in. My first incredible human experience of the trip was in northern Morocco, near the Al Wahda dam, where I was invited by the Laaroussi family for Eid. I had finished a long day of riding, and decided that it was time to stop. I asked in a village if I could pitch my tent somewhere for the night, and was directed to Mr. Laaroussi, who was incredibly kind. The whole family and their neighbors were unbelievably welcoming, kind, and funny. I instantly made a connection with uni student Mohammed, home for the holidays. I was treated to delicious food, and was quickly overwhelmed with the hospitality I was receiving. The next day I was preparing to leave, but bucketing rain meant that not only was I unmotivated to leave, but my hosts insisted that I stay on. I stayed yet another day, walking around the village and hills with Mohammed and Najib. I’m still amazed by how easy it was for the family to make me feel at home. I never felt like a stranger, and shared many great moments with the men of the family (as this was the Arabic part of the country, I didn’t spend much time with the women of the family). Watching Real Madrid come back against Man City with superfan Ayoub, enjoying traditional Moroccan food (notably homemade olive oil and leben), having deep discussions, and laughing with the younger kids made my stay with the Laaroussis an unforgettable time.

Dakar was a city where I knew I’d spent some time. I had friends coming to visit, and I needed to rest and get visas for upcoming countries. I didn’t expect to spend almost a month in a city that I fell in love with. First, I met Abbé Jo at the St. Michel school. I was put into contact with him via a friend in Switzerland, and through him and his colleagues I understood what “Teranga”, the legendary Senegalese “vivre ensemble”, was all about. After he had to leave for a pilgrimage, I was hosted by Victoria, who my cyclist buddy David knew, for 10 days. Victoria and her friends were incredible, and made my time in the city even better. Vira, Jemina, Erwan, Anya, Will, Daisy, Johnny are all wonderful people who I hope to see again soon. And at the time of writing I may need to owe Jemina a huge favor as she has magically sorted out the Nigerian visa for me… About a million Catan games and many laughs later, I finished my visa run and was sad to leave a city that I fell in love with. It also helped that two of my friends from Switzerland paid me a visit!

With Abbé Jo, Céline, Rachel, and Emmanuel

Victoria

Every day was a lesson in hospitality basically since I entered Morocco, but sometimes the welcome is so unexpected and feels too much. This was the case in Kouibly, a small town in the Ivory Coast. Realizing that I wasn’t likely to cross an upcoming river before nightfall, I decided to check at the mayor’s office in the next town to see if it was alright to pitch my tent in front of the building. Mr. Yoboué, an employee there, said a phrase which has become very commonplace: “Yes, but wouldn’t you prefer to stay inside my home?”. In the end, not only did his family free up a bed for me, but we had a wonderful dinner with his colleagues from which I was forbidden from contributing, an excellent breakfast, and everyone insisted I stay for lunch so I could try “Plakali”. At times like this, I know how much effort and money went into taking care of me, and when I feel slightly overwhelmed I try to offer some money, in this case 5000 cfa (7.5 euro). This was a mistake, and has always been a mistake. Nobody ever accepts. Hospitality on this continent is out of this world. Mr. Yoboué is one of many people who have showed me warmth and kindness. These occurrences happen almost daily on the road, and can transform any day into a special one. What some places may lack in terms of sheer natural beauty at times (very flat with farms, especially in Ivory Coast and Ghana) they always make up for in humanity. Where France and Spain were beautiful and allowed for great wild-camping, everything from Morocco to Ghana has allowed me to meet cool people every evening, ready to welcome me into their homes and families.

With Mr. Yoboué and his family

Mr. Kouassi, Mr. Yoboué, and Mr. Fofana

To finish, I still haven’t forgotten the first time someone went well out of their way to help me, which was at the Auberge du Bez in France. I had forgotten my wallet some 25kms before, and being stuck in a snowstorm meant that riding back with my bicycle was out of the question. Working with the owners of the Auberge and the place where I had left my wallet, we managed to meet in the middle. These people went out of their way to make sure that everything went alright for me, and I’m still so thankful that they took the time to help me out in a tight spot, taking time out of their evenings to rectify my stupid mistake.

The Bad Parts

At the time of writing, I’m stuck in Accra. My bicycle’s rear wheel has completely collapsed, with broken spokes. The break happening over the holiday season meant that many places were closed, and the mechanic at the spot I went only started work again in the middle of January (of course I was only informed of this when he got back to work…).

Problems with my bicycle are easily the worst part of this trip. Punctures are easy, and I’ve become really good at repairing them. I’ve gotten my fastest time down to 15 minutes! And I’ve only had 8 so far. I regularly clean my chain, because if I want my bike to last at all that is the most important part to take care of. But when things are beyond my abilities to fix it can get tough. After almost 5000kms since the south of Spain, in Guinea-Bissau I finally needed to replace my brake pads. Unfortunately, the pistons on both the front and rear brakes had clogged on one side. Yes, I made the incredibly stupid mistake of having hydraulic rim brakes. I had mineral oil with me and a tool kit, but nothing that I did helped long term. It appeared a few days later that I had oil leaking everywhere. I looked for a brake replacement in Guinea to no avail. This meant that in Guinea, the hilliest country in West Africa, I had no brakes and had to walk my bike down hills. In Sierra Leone I went to the famous Lunsar bicycle shop where they were able to replace my brakes, but apologized saying that they only had one good pair of pads left. At the time I thought it was not going to be an issue, but that was before I discovered just how awful chinese bicycle parts are. In Kabala in northern Sierra Leone, where the hills begin, I needed to replace my decent brake pads for cheap chinese ones. I needed to brake often, as the hills were steep, and on dirt roads its important to take it slow. Due to this, I needed to tighten the pads every two hours, and replace them every day. I’ll just reiterate that my previous pads lasted 5000kms, these barely lasted 50. And not only did they need constant attention, they were damaging my rims. I don’t know what they’re made of, but they dug through my rims, creating a fissure in my front wheel. Being in a remote region in south-eastern Sierra Leone when this happened, I prayed that my wheel would hold until I made it to Monrovia, which it did. The mechanics there replaced my front wheel, but I kept the old one with me as I still wanted to used the dynamo hub. They also put on good brake pads, which lasted 1000kms from Monrovia to Abidjan, and could have gone on longer. Once in Abidjan, Cassandre came to visit me and brought new rims and spokes. There was a bike shop which seemed decent, and the mechanics there rebuilt both of my wheels with the correct hubs. Unfortunately they screwed up, and the brand new spokes on the brand new wheel broke in Ghana, the first time spokes have broken on the trip. And now at the end of this, I’m still stuck in Accra, waiting for my bike to get fixed. I do think its interesting that an issue which began in Bissau has ended up with me blocked in Accra months later.

In terms of difficulty, Spain was the hardest country to cross, with Mauritania coming second. I enjoyed both countries, but I was also very glad to reach the end of both. In Spain I took a very adventurous route, going through many mountainous regions. It was never flat, and I had cold rainy weather most of the way. It was always discouraging to enter a café in the morning for the routine “3 C’s” (café, charge (for my phone), and caca) and see the new report on the “brutal drop in temperature”. The coldest night was a brisk 7 °C where I was silently thanking my parents for letting me borrow their high-end quilt. The weather also meant that I had encounters with the monster of rural Spanish tracks: mud. This mud is unlike anything I have ever seen. Just a few meters and your wheels are completely clogged. Just a few steps and your shoes have doubled in size.

My route through Spain had a strong emphasis on being off-road as much as possible. I was mostly able to avoid the worst of the mud, and the paths were gorgeous, but on three occasions I made pretty poor decisions with where I went. I used routes found on bikepacking.com to go through Spain, in particular the “European Divide” and the “Transandalus”. Both were beautiful, but at some points they are made for full-suspension mountain bikes and not fully loaded, 0 suspension touring bikes. In the hills above the town of Montblanc there was a section where I carried my gear in three goes over a course of 1.5 kms, meaning that even though I ended the day exhausted I had only managed to move 30kms. Before getting to Ronda I went through a tiny steep trail that destroyed my mental state, and ended with me smashing my helmet against some rocks in sheer frustration. But by far the worst, and probably the worst day of the trip, was in the Hoches del Cabriel national park.

Most of Europe, but Spain in particular, are very picky with private property. You can be cycling down a dirt (or paved) road in a remote forest, but you’ll be surrounded by fences saying you’ll get fined if you leave the road. This was one reason why I followed the bikepacking routes, as they did not go on private property. One of the rare times I deviated was in the Hoches de Cabriel.

It seemed like there were many routes through the National Park on the map, and it looked like a beautiful place to go, and having paths made me think that having a bicycle would not be an issue. Unfortunately, the day before getting there was full of heavy rain, and the mud was present. There was so much mud that I only managed to go 2 kms in 4 hours of pushing. I took off my mudguards, disconnected my brakes, and pushed. I needed to use a stick to get the mud off every 5 meters, if not the wheels would just seize. After finally getting out of the mudpits, I was able to make some progress, I was seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. I should also mention that I had not seen a soul the entire day. My only companions were the many ibex who were all over. Sadly, I came to a tall fence saying that the next part was forbidden, as it was a private hunting area. This fence broke my spirits. I was out of water, and knew that going back was not really an option, as it was 7kms uphill through the same mud that had taken me all day to get through. So I trespassed, somehow managing to lift my bike over the fence (I’m still unsure how). I finished my day in the town of Casas del Rio, where the only thing that was working was the water fountain. With the light fading I found a park, perfect for camping, except for the millions of signs stating exactly how the park has to be used, including no camping. In the worst mood that I’ve been in in years, I ignored the sign, set up my tent, and left nobody the wiser in the morning.

The obsession in Europe with stating exactly how every inch of land has to be used is what I like the least about touring there. Ever since I entered Morocco, the rule of common sense has overtaken instead of the boring, exaggerated rule of law made up by people whose idea of fun is probably shooting an ibex and that hunting is the only way that nature should be enjoyed. Truly one of the things that I like about the African continent is that in most cases, asking for permission, reasoning, and plain common sense are much more prevalent. Even if something is not allowed, someone will be able to explain why, and potentially offer an alternative option.

The high Atlas in Morocco is famed for its beauty. The landscapes between Boumia and Boumalne Dadès are stunning at every turn, and extremely unique. Every valley offered something new, and it was a strenuous physical challenge that had massive rewards in views every time I made it up a new hill or pass. The people I met were mostly friendly, if not as welcoming as everyone had been up until that point. My first night in the area was a surprise to me. A huge train of 4x4s with Swiss plates went through the valley. This was road where Europeans would “conquer the Atlas”, in their bid to drive to Merzouga, meaning that it was traversed very frequently by tourists. These tourists are, to be kind, braindead piece of… They dehumanize the local Berbers, taking photos of them without permission, giving out money and candy to the children, and having a negative impact on the area in general. I’ve written about this in a previous post, so I won’t go too into detail again, but the kids threw stones at me and one pulled me off the bike causing me to crash before sprinting away. In general this was the only place during the whole trip where I felt unwelcome. I did have a great moment with some truck drivers who broke down at the top of a pass where they invited me over for tea, but in general this is the part of Morocco that I’m glad to have been to once, but once is enough. I’d be happy to go to the Rif, the Middle Atlas, and especially the Anti-Atlas again in a heartbeat though. The truth is that the more tourists are in an area, the worse the experience has been for me.

The Best Books of the Year

I have books with me when riding, and have read a few really great ones on the trip. Some were for pleasure, and some were to think about subjects that I find interesting in a more academic fashion. I tried to read books written by people in the countries I cycled through, but I haven’t managed to do this.

By Robert Fletcher I read Romancing the Wild, and The Conservation Revolution where Bram Büscher is co-author. These are the most academic books I’ve read, but both were mind-blowing and engaging (especially after the first two chapters where they explain their research process and theoretical frameworks). Romancing the Wild questioned how “we” interact with nature, and The Conservation Revolution highlighted the inherent paradoxes within the different conservation movements, and showed the only logical way forward past the many mistakes made.

Une Ecologie Décoloniale by Malcom Ferdinand was the most influential book that I have read on this trip and perhaps in my life. It is also academic in nature, but reads much easier than the previous books. Ferdinand brings emotion and prose to the equation, and shows that colonialism as an idea, or at least as it can still be seen today, can be traced back to 1492 and Columbus’ first voyage to the Caribbean. The central theme is that colonialism is a way of living that goes way beyond just occupying foreign territories. It is a system of exploitation. Of people and of nature, with hierarchies, winners and losers, which profit for the few at the expense of the many. This book is historical, thoughtful, and revolutionary. If you read any book here, make this the one. It is originally written in French, but is also available in English.

The Nutmeg’s Curse by Amitav Ghosh thinks about the same subjects as “Une écologie décoloniale”, but in a less academic way. They both talk about the Gaia hypothesis (however with vary different takeaways), the lord of the flies (both agreeing that Golding was wrong), colonial history and exploitation. If you’re interested in these subjects but want a less academic, more spiritual, but still extremely thoughtful read, I’d highly recommend this.

The Nigerian giants Chinua Achebe and Chimamanda Adichie are “must-read” African authors. I’m still amazed that Things Fall Apart isn’t on English reading lists in schools, but you somehow finish high-school having read three Arthur Miller plays… Chimamanda Adichie is responsible for my all-time favorite book: Half of a Yellow Sun. Its a beautiful and devastating book that will not leave you indifferent. Hew follow-up, Americanah, is just as profound and arguably more impactful, as it deals with current social issues. All three of these books are incredible, and are must-reads. If you’re not much of a reader, she has two amazing Ted talks on youtube that you need to watch.

The Beautyful Ones Are Not Yet Born, by Ghanaian author Ayi Kwei Armah is a book that I think about almost daily. Set in Ghana in the first years since independence, it treats materialism in a really thought-provoking fashion. What sets this book apart is the writing. You truly feel this book, the writing makes you experience the discomfort, griminess, and dinginess that the main character lives in. What really makes this book transcend is the ending, which is utterly perfect.

Alain Mabanckou is a Congolese author who has many great books to his name. The one I read on this trip was Lumières de Pointe Noir, but the one that I enjoyed the most was Mémoires de Porc-Epic, which is narrated by a porcupine, the evil familiar of a village boy. Funny, smart, and unforgettable, this book does without punctuation (yes, except for the stops after chapters, there are no periods, commas, or anything in the sort) yet manages to remain fluid and coherent.

Guinean author Camara Laye wrote L’Enfant Noir in 1953, which has become one of the most celebrated books from the continent. I’m also surprised that this isn’t mandatory reading at schools, even for younger kids. I don’t think its as creative as “Things Fall Apart”, and sometimes I question the author’s purpose (he seems too pro-France for my liking), but what this book and Achebe’s masterpiece accomplish is humanizing people and places which are subject to derision, stereotyping, and discrimination.

I did read other books, but these are the ones which I recommend the most. If you have any suggestions please let me know!

The Best Music of the Year

Riding my bike I frequently put on music or audiobooks, especially when its a boring tarmac section. I have a massive Spotify playlist that I listen to when in “time trial” mode or when I need motivation to get up a hill. These are my all time favorite songs, but I tried to limit it to only a few per artist. As opposed to the best books section, this part will cover music that came out this year specifically. I also have a playlist with my favorite songs that released this year.

The Sun In Us Spotify playlist ; 2022 best songs playlist

I’ll begin with 13 of my favorite albums this year, and follow up with a selection of songs. 13 is a weird number I know, but I felt like mentioning all of these albums. I enjoy staying up to date with new interesting music that is coming out. Some people have the belief that music today is not as good as it used to be, or that it “all sounds the same”, and I just cannot understand this perspective at all.

1. FKA Twigs - Caprisongs

My favorite this year was Caprisongs by FKA Twigs. I love everything Twigs has put out so far, with LP1 being in my top 20 fave albums of all time, and Cellophane being one of the best songs of the 21st century. On spotify this falls under the “Escape Room” genre, whatever the heck that means. Caprisongs is a massive departure from Twigs’ previous work, being much more positive and self-assertive. The many different styles and features really make this a diverse and fun listen. It goes between beautiful and grandiose to hard hitting and catchy. There are many features on the album too, and all of them bring something special. The themes explored, namely self-growth, confidence, and femininity, are well thought out and presented. But mostly, its just really fun to listen to. I enjoy all the songs, but stand-outs for me are “ride the dragon”, “meta-angel”, “papi bones”, “jealousy”, “darjeeling”, and “minds of men”.

2. Black Country, New Road – Ants From Up There

Whilst Caprisongs was my favorite album, Ants From up There by Black Country, New Road is probably the best album of the past year. BC,NR are a rock outfit who pride themselves as being the new “Arcade Fire”, with members playing varied instruments and having slightly non-traditional vocals. Every single track is beautiful. The musicianship is insanely creative, I don’t know of a band that sounds like this. Add on top of that the really intense and deep lyrics which delve into relationships in interesting ways. Unlike Caprisongs, which I had on repeat, Ants From up There is not an easy listen, and getting through some songs can be an emotional investment. There are no duds on this album, but my favorite songs are “Concorde”, “Snow Globes”, “The Place Where He Inserted the Blade”, and “Basketball Shoes”.

3. Billy Woods – Aethiopes

In a year that had about a million great hip-hop albums, “Aethiopes” by Billy Woods was the best. This isn’t a catchy album at all, the sound of this album makes you feel uneasy. For some reason I get the feeling of being chased through a swamp. The book “L’esclave vieil homme et le molosse” comes to mind when listening to this... Quite appropriately, as it tackles subjects such as (neo)colonialism, making parallels between the historic exploitation of Africa and present-day social struggles. There are many really great moments on the album, but my favorite are on remoseless:

Mid-eighties in the rear-view of a gold Mercedes

Midday sun make the crocodiles lazy

Money phone pocket dial, run come save me

Sweet old ladies poisoning pigeons in the park

For a lark, make mine strychnine, life is a zipline in the dark

Spare me the Hallmark Karl Marx

I was in the Dollar Tree break-room playing cards with quarters

Stop loss posters on the wall, brick and mortar

I watched the planet from orbit, remoseless

4. Perfume Genius – Ugly Season

Perfume Genius’ “Ugly Season” is another fantastic album by one of my favorite artists. “Put Your Back N 2 It” is one of my top 5 favorite albums of all time, and although Ugly Season sounds nothing like it, Perfume Genius still captured me with the gorgeous instrumental arrangements and their delicate voice. This album is a lot more ambient and instrumentally driven than anything they’ve done before. Its definitely not the catchiest album of the year, but as a whole the experience it is incredible. The songs “Photograph” and “Herem” are good starting points to see if you’d be interested.

5. J.I.D – The Forever Story

After 3 albums which are heavy sonic experiences, I’m getting back into more “on repeat” music with J.I.D’s “The Forever Story”. The subject matter is thought-provoking, the lyricism is unparalleled, the flows are one-of-a-kind, the instrumentation is hard-hitting and beautiful, its extremely catchy, and there are no weak tracks despite this being over an hour long. The best songs are “Raydar”, “Crack Sandwich”, “Kody Blu 31”, and “Lauder Too”, but really everything here is great.

6. Ashenspire – Hostile Architecture

Metal isn’t typically my favorite genre, as I find a lot of it to be too “campy”, like every new project is somehow a parody of itself. However, the metal I do end up enjoying I end up truly loving. Its a bit all or nothing for me, and Ashenspire’s “Hostile Architecture” scratches all my itches without playing into the genre’s clichés. This album tackles some very interesting subjects. The band writes on their Bandcamp page that “Hostile Architecture is a sonic exploration of the ways that subjects under late capitalism are constrained and set in motion via the various structures that uphold stratification and oppression in urban contexts.”

7. Sudan Archives – Natural Brown Prom Queen

Banger after banger on this. I liked her last album, but I LOVED this one. Unbelievably catchy and a bit eccentric, Sudan Archives showcases their many talents (besides having an incredible voice shes a violinist) to the fullest. “Homemaker” is one of the best songs of the year, but so are “NBPQ (Topless)”, “Selfish Soul”, and “Yellow Brick Road” so don’t miss this!

8. Big Thief – Dragon New Warm Mountain I Believe in You

Indie-Rock band Big Thief have been one of my favorites for a while now, and “Dragon New Warm Mountain I Believe In You” is their best album. It uses typical folk instruments in unique ways, and Adrienne Lenker’s vocals are heart-wrenching. The creativity here makes Big Thief more than stand out in a genre which can feel a bit stale at times. If you’re into indie-folk you have to listen to this. “Simulation Swarm”, “Certainty”, “Little Things”, and “Flower of Blood” are some of my favorites, but the album is so consistently good that you’ll probably like it all.

9. MOTOMAMI – Rosalía

“MOTOMAMI” by Rosalía is a super weird album that has hit huge mainstream appeal. Rosalía seems to be a wild character, which seeps through in her music. Her previous two albums are both fantastic as well, and all three sound nothing alike. Los Angeles is a straightforward, beautiful flamenco album, and El Mal Querer is one of my top-ten all-time favorites. “Motomami” has much more pop appeal, but stays true to what makes Rosalía so interesting. It has insane bangers (“SAOKO” and “BIZCOCHITO”), beautiful ballads (“HENTAI”, “G3 N15”, and “SAKURA”), and some of the best songs of the year (“CANDY” and “LA FAMA”). I should also mention her voice, which reels you in and never lets go.

10. Little Simz – NO THANK YOU

Little Simz is on a crazy run right now. NO THANK YOU is her third album in a row which is near-perfect. Compared to last year’s incredible “SIMBI”, this album is much more concise and consistent. I love both albums, but for completely different reasons. “No Thank You” is 50 minutes of Simz dropping bars on wonderful orchestral production. This album has no weak spots. “Angel”, “Gorilla”, and “Heart on Fire” are all great, but “Broken” has perhaps the most important song on the record, going deep into mental health issues. The only shortcoming is that I don’t feel any song on this project is as good as “Introvert”, but since I think that is the best song of the 21st century the bar was rather high.

11. Quadeca – I Didn’t Mean To Haunt You

I Didn’t Mean To Haunt You by Quadeca is a concept album written from the perspective of a ghost. Genre-less, this album is everything I didn’t know I needed. The Lo-Fi aesthetic is something that I always fall for, and paired with the sequences of beauty and madness make for music that is tailor-fit for my tastes. The only thing holding me back from this being an all-time favorite are the vocal mixings on some tracks which get a bit lost, diminishing their impact. I still love this, and hope that you give it a shot. “sorry4dying”, “house settling”, “fantasyworld”, and “cassini’s division” are my favorite moments. “born yesterday” is the spot where I get annoyed that a perfect track is slightly spoiled by weird sound mixing.

12. SZA – SOS

Finally SZA put out her second album, SOS, and it was well worth the wait. This came out just a few weeks ago now, so I haven’t listened to it as much, but it is clear that this is amazing. The instrumentation is subdued to make space for SZA’s voice to take center stage, and she carries the weight effortlessly. This is probably the most popular album on this list, and understandably. Its so pleasant to listen to, but its a SZA album so its very sad and beautiful. “Kill Bill”, “Low”, “Nobody Gets Me”, “Special” (which plays on “Creep” by Radiohead) and “Forgiveless” are my favorite tracks, but the whole thing (minus F2F which is by far the worst song) is wonderful.

13. Asian Glow - Paraglow & Weatherglow

Not really albums, but Asian Glow has had a great year releasing 2 stellar Eps: Paraglow and Weatherglow (collaborations with Parannoul and Weatherday respectively). Both are heavy and hard hitting, more in a shoegaze/indie rock genre. I put these on and just enjoy the huge wall of sound.

Songs of the Year

If you just want to hear my favorite songs from the year, here’s the spotify playlist again! Here are some standout songs from this year:

Phoebe Bridgers is one of my favorite artists at the moment, with patented “sadgirl” vibes. No album this year, but a few great singles. Sidelines is the best of those, and maybe my favorite song of the year.

THE SUN by KayCyy is a super catchy hip-hop song. This isn’t typically the style of hip-hop that I gravitate towards, but this just slaps. The video is also really cool.

Guilty Pleasure by Groupthink is just a fun track that I had on repeat (alongside “Sex is a Sport”). I have no idea what they’re saying, its just so much fun to listen to.

In the same vein, Judgement Bolt by Deaths Dynamic Shroud is more of an experience than a song. I have no idea how to characterize this… You’ll love or hate it.

Kwaku the Traveller by Black Sherif is maybe my favorite African track from this year. I love the minimalist production and his powerful voice. Lots of motivation when riding with this on.

I’m in Love With You continues The 1975’s trend of making some of my favorite songs. This is THE feelgood song of the year. This band somehow makes mid albums and I can’t stand the lead man, but every year they have a few songs that I just love.

When riding I put on my massive playlist and just let it roll. I enjoy my super long playlist because the moods vary a ton. Not all the songs are tailor-made for a motivating ride, but are all songs which I enjoy listening to. Check it out and maybe you’ll find something you like! Be ready for genre whiplash though.

If you want to get into some African musicians, its quite hard to overlook the current Afrobeats scene in Nigeria at the moment. Many major artists are now collaborating with the big names in Western music, most notably Drake, Ed Sheeran, Justin Bieber etc… Unfortunately they can ruin the songs that they appear on, but its great that these artists have gotten so huge, and if you’re anywhere south of the Sahara they’re inavoidable.

Burna Boy has perhaps the best album in the genre with African Giant, but he also has great singles and makes really good music. Fireboy DML has my favorite tracks, Vibration, Bandana, and Peru have been on repeat. Ayra Starr’s song Rush is a certified banger and has been played to death everywhere I’ve been, and it hasn’t gotten old yet. Same with Rema who has two incredible songs with Dumebi and Calm Down. Black Sherif has also found his way into my rotation, with great hits like Oil in my Head, Kwaku the Traveller, and 45. Omah Lay is a more explicit singer, and has some great hits like Understand, Soso, and Ye Ye Ye. Tems is the final artist I’ll mention here, who has been the highlight on other’s tracks, especially on WAIT FOR U with Future and Drake, but Free Mind is a great standalone track.

While the Nigerians have become omnipresent with their sound invading radio waves across the continent (and have reached Europe and the US too), some artists thrive in their home countries. Daara J Family in Senegal and Banlieuzart and Soulbang’s in Guinea are great artists but get little play outside of their countries.

Mali and Ivory Coast have massive music scenes which go far beyond their borders, and their sounds are very specific to those places. Bamako’s Sidiki Diabaté has a sound that I really enjoy, with Dakan Tigui and Douaou Djabira being my favorite tracks. Just don’t listen to the album he did with M (the French singer). Magic System have legend status in Ivory Coast, and they’ve responsible for one of the songs that I hate the most (Magic in the Air), and one of my all time favorites (Premier Gaou). Anything Zouglou is fun to listen to and incredibly popular in the country.

Saharan rock has become a huge movement too, with great bands mostly from Niger and Mali. My favorite are Mdou Moctar, and their song Afrique Victime is fantastic. Tamikrest, Tinariwen, Bombino, and Terakraft are all great. If you’re into really skilled musicianship and love electric guitar, this is for you.

What songs or albums did I miss last year? Do you know other African artists that I should be aware of (or look forward to in upcoming countries)? Please let me know!!

If you’ve made it to the end, congratulations! Here’s to a fantastic 2023.